Saturday, October 25, 2008

Don't Flee the Flea!

Don't Flee the Flea!

Control and Prevent Fleas in Your Home

By Franny Syufy, About.com

You've seen them - tiny, quick creatures that scurry through your cat's fur, feasting on her blood, and causing painful itching - so bad that kitty may scratch herself raw in seeking relief. If you have a bad flea infestation in a multiple-cat household, you've probably been bitten yourself by these voracious feeders, and you may even have seen them hopping through your carpeting. (Did you know a flea can jump 33 cm. in one leap - over a foot?) I'm here to tell you - cat flea control is not only possible, it's relatively easy.

The most common flea which feeds off cats, dogs, and humans, is the Ctenocephalides felis. If you observe your cat scratching and aren't sure if fleas are the cause, use a flea comb on your cat and observe the tiny black dots that emerge on the comb - we commonly call it "flea dirt," but in reality, it is the excrement the flea leaves. Smash some with a damp paper towel, and it will turn red - that's the residue from your cat's blood - and a warning that cat flea control is indicated.

As if the itching and stinging weren't enough, fleas also transmit other conditions which can even have a more deleterious effect on your cat's health.

Common Flea "Hitch-Hikers"

  • Anemia:  Unchecked infestations of fleas can actually cause anemia from blood loss - sometimes fatal, particularly in kittens. Pale gums are a red flag for anemia in kittens, and their gums should be routinely checked if your kittens have just survived a flea attack.
  • Tapeworms:  With kittens, fleas and worms are practically synonymous, and kittens that are victimized by fleas should always be treated for worms.
  • Haemobartonellosis:  A more serious form of anemia, caused by a microorganism carried by the flea, the h.felis in the case of felines. Haemobartonellosis is diagnosed by laboratory tests and treated with antibiotics, steroids, and in some severe cases, blood transfusions. 

The Life of a Flea

The cycles of a flea are very like that of a butterfly, but unlike the beautiful end result of those flower-friendly creatures, the adult flea is a menace to all it encounters.
  1. Eggs:  Fleas lay their eggs on the host animal, where the entire cycle may take place. Other eggs fall off into the environment, e.g., your carpeting or kitty's bedding, or your own bed.
  2.  Larvae:  The larvae "hatchlings" feed on the feces left by the adult, and continue to develop for about a week.
  3. Pupae:  Like the butterfly, the larvae spins a cocoon for itself, where it continues to evolve into the adult flea - within another week or so on the host animal.
  4. Adult:  The emerging adult feeds on its host, mates, and continues the life cycle. Is it any wonder why cat flea control is so important?

Good Riddance!

With today's technology, there is no excuse for living with a flea infestation. You'll need to use a complete "shotgun" approach with flea control to break the cycle, followed by an ongoing flea prevention program.

Get Rid of the Eggs

This should be an ongoing program while the adult flea treatment is killing the live fleas.  Here are the steps you'll need to take:
  • Wash all bedding thoroughly.  While the bedding is free of coverings, vacuum the mattress, particularly in the crevices, where eggs might hide.
  • Vacuum carpeting daily and dispose of used vacuum bags.  I do not recommend placing flea collars in the vacuum bag, as the heat generated by the machine could cause noxious fumes.
  • Steam-clean carpeting.  This will kill any remaining eggs the vacuum might have missed.
  • If necessary, use a whole-house insect bomb which specifically targets fleas. It is critical to remove all food dishes and live animals, including birds during this process. You may consider hiring a professional for this job, but make sure he knows you have cats, and will use a cat-safe product.
  • Hire a professional  to treat outdoors areas. Insist on a "cat-friendly" product for this purpose.  If you have an outdoor cat, keep him confined inside for the day.
Your first job will be to eliminate as many fleas from your cat by combing and bathing.  Once the bulk of the tiny nuisances are gone, you can prevent further flea infestations with the use of a topical flea control product.
  • Comb the Cat:  Using a flea comb, comb carefully throughout the entire body of the cat. Keep a jar or bowl of diluted bleach nearby, and as you collect fleas on the comb, shake them into the jar. The fleas will die quickly.
  • Bathe the Cat:  If you and your cat are up to it, a bath will drown most remaining fleas. It isn't necessary to use a "flea" shampoo or a "flea dip" for this purpose. Just a mild cat or baby shampoo will do the job handsomely. If you've never bathed a cat before, check my step-by-step How To on Bathing Your Cat.

Topical Flea Control Products

There are several topical cat flea control products which work by affecting the nerve receptors of the flea. They are usually applied to the cat's skin at the back of the neck, and are collected in the hair follicles, from which the product is slowly released. Most topicals are labeled for once-a-month application, although in practice, they may work much longer.

Caution! Never use products labeled for dogs on cats. Also, I do not recommend flea dips, sprays, powders, or collars. If you choose to use such products, do your homework and be absolutely sure that the ingredients used are safe for cats.

Apply the topical product, following the directions for your age/size of cat.

  • Advantage: Uses imidacloprid as the active ingredient, and is generally regarded as safe for cats and kittens over six weeks of age. Does not kill ticks.  We personally use this product and have not seen a flea in our house for several years.
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  • Frontline: Said to kill both fleas and ticks; Frontline uses a synthetic ingredient called fipronil, which may cause a temporary sensitivity in the area of application. 
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  • Bio Spot for Cats: Bio Spot combines permethrin and an insect growth regulator (nylar) to kill eggs and larvae as well as adult fleas. It is active for as long as three months, when used as directed. Bio Spot may also cause sensitivity to the animal, and should not be used on kittens less than twelve weeks of age, geriatric, pregnant, or nursing cats.
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  • Revolution:  Its main ingredient is Selamectin, which is said to kill not only fleas and some ticks, but also ear mites, as well as offering protection against heartworm. Revolution stays in the bloodstream, and should not be used on kittens under six weeks of age. Since it is a systemic product, it may cause allergic reactions in some cats.
    Compare Prices

If you follow this cat flea control program scrupulously, fleas will soon be a distant memory in your household, and your kitties will be eternally grateful to you for freeing them from unwanted fleas and their hitch-hikers.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Dealing With Kitten Diarrhea - Tips To Make It Better

Two weeks ago, seeing the cutest furry babies in a pet store display, I made the ultimate of impulsive decisions, I adopted two kittens. I hurriedly paid their adoption fee, which was to include their first round of shots and spay/neuter fees. Home we went when the little girl, Lucille Abigail Twinkletoes (Lulu for short), promptly had diarrhea. The smelly, messy, awful kind that gets all over and we still had 30 minutes of driving to do - yuck!

The other kitty, supposedly a boy, we were going to name LeRoy (more on that later) was unscathed by the ride home. Sure enough, when it came time for the litter box, he had diarrhea too.

Like every modern-day mom, I went online. I read good and bad advice because I didn't want to go to the emergency vet that night. Needless to say, one night of diarrhea was enough for me - I made a vet appointment. And here's what I learned that might help you out if you are going through the same experience of bad kitty diarrhea:

1. Feed your young pets. In my kittens case, I took 2 tablespoons of ground turkey, mixed in a tablespoon of pumpkin and cooked rice. They gobbled it up! I was also told that acidophilus - found in yogurt - was good for them. I have an issue feeding dairy to cats, it's a no-no for me, so I added a gel cap of powdered acidophilus to their turkey. They gobbled up more.

2. Make sure they are drinking water and water only to drink. Cows milk is not for kittens, it's for cows. As it was nighttime and the pet shops were closed, I could not get kitten milk replacement formula. So they drank water. Dehydration comes on quick in itty-bitty creatures so I watched and encouraged their drinking.

3. Food - this proved to be a problem. While I am in the pet business and I know that all pet foods are designed to be healthy and nutritious, they are not all equal. I chose a brand based on the pet shop recommendation (and my experience at trade shows). This brand, Solid Gold, I was informed by my vet, can cause loose stools. I decided to try a different brand, my vet suggested Science Diet Kitten Formula - what my other cat was eating. My vet's advice was to give all my felines the kitten formula, even to my (older) cat, instead of giving adult cat food to kittens - which I think they were being given at the pet shop.

4. Get a check for worms. Worms and parasites are common in kittens - especially those from a shelter with an unknown mother and history. Better to be safe than sorry.

5. Be wary of sneezing. Should sneezing be present, it can be a sign of a virus that could cause the diarrhea. Noticing signs like this will help the vet give good advice and is important. My kittens had no sneezing. Their fecal check was negative for worms. In my case the diarrhea must have been caused by their diet.

6. Keep kittens out of your other cat's litter boxes. If you have other cats in the house, it is important, especially in the first few days of introducing new kittens to your home, to have them use their own litter boxes.

7. Scoop kitten poop promptly. In my case it's hard to keep everyone out of all the litter boxes I have so I just tried to keep them meticulously clean. Not everyone like to be forced to go where it smells.

8. Antibiotics can cause diarrhea - just an FYI.

9. Keep an eye on kittens "movements" and keep in contact with your vet.

My new kittens, Lulu and Pearl (I found out 'Leroy' was actually a girl) are getting better. Not quite normal, but better. Diarrhea is a pain for everyone. But, with patience, good advice and good food, it gets better. It's not uncommon for diarrhea to last a month, but it doesn't have to. Let me know if you have any questions. After this experience, I feel like I got the scoop on the poop!

Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, ChoicePetProducts.com.


Thursday, October 2, 2008

怀孕母麂不幸车祸遇难 顽强麂宝宝奇迹生 (ZT)


小麂鲁伯特刚出生时只有15厘米高


酣睡中的小麂


活泼可爱的的小麂鲁伯特
  中国日报网环球在线消息:据英国《每日邮报》9月30日报道,日前在英国发生一起悲惨的车祸,遇难的是一只怀孕的母麂,尽管兽医尽全力进行抢救,但母麂还是死了。为了挽救母麂肚中的宝宝,医生们通过剖腹产手术使一只雄性小麂幸运地来到人间。

  这只小麂被大家亲切地称为鲁伯特。提前3周出生的它当时只有6英寸高(约15厘米),体重只有500克。来自英国白金汉郡的"提克温克尔斯 "(Tiggywinkles)野生动物医院的医生们赶紧给它吸氧并把它放进保育箱,鲁伯特5天大的时候终于睁开了眼睛,这令医生们既激动又开心。

  "提克温克尔斯"医院的创始人斯托克介绍说,现在医生们用吸管喂鲁伯特。他还说,麂是一种非常机警胆小的动物,但是这只小麂很勇敢,"它是个非常活泼的小家伙,非常胆大有进取心"。医生们对鲁伯特的健康状况非常有信心,称它将全面康复并健康成长。

  麂(也叫毛冠鹿)是目前人类所知的最古老的鹿,最早出现在1500万至3500万年前,在法国和德国中世纪的沉积物中曾发现麂化石。目前麂主要产自东南亚,此外在中国南部、印度、斯里兰卡、日本和印度尼西亚的岛屿上也有分布。麂属食草动物,外形像鹿,但比鹿小,毛黄黑色,腿细而有力,善跳跃。雄麂有獠牙、短角。(李卉)